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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.